Easy Pattern Hack with the Nikko Dress by True Bias.

The Pattern

I came across the Nikko pattern by True Bias at a local creative reuse store and it looked completely new and unopened. The pattern has 4 views to make a knit top or dress out of it and sleeves are optional. The dress pattern has a semi-fitted silhouette, straight through the waist and hip, featuring a racerback detail, a mock neck, and a leg slit. I wanted to make a similar knit dress so I used this pattern as a base.

Hacking the Pattern and Sewing the Dress

I altered the pattern (view C) so it’s narrower at the waist, flairs at the bottom, no mock neck, and a midi length. Once I got the fit right on me, the entire sewing process was super quick and easy.

The fabric I used is gorgeous burnt orange, also thrifted from the same store. The fabric also has a 75% stretch, which was recommended by the pattern. To determine the stretch percentage, place 2 inches of fabric alongside a ruler, aligning one edge near the 0-inch mark. Gently pull the fabric to the right; it should reach the 3.5-inch mark without the top and bottom edges rolling too much.

I sewed my knit fabric using a narrow zigzag stitch. Since the knit fabric shouldn’t fray easily, I only hemmed the bottom, neckline, and leg slit, while leaving the remaining edges raw. Be mindful not to stretch the fabric while sewing to prevent it from becoming wavy or rippling. I accidentally stretched one of the sleeve facings and you can see that one side is kind of puckered.